"Does this system need to be backwashed?"
This system does not need to be backwashed and does not come with a valve to allow a backwash. However, we recommend a sediment filter be installed in front of this system because any sediment or sand in the water will gravitate to the bottom of the tank. This sediment and sand could then clog the distributor screen located at the bottom of the tank and cause this system to reduce your water flow.

"How easy is it to install this Bottled Water Factory?"
You just need to interrupt, or cut into, the main cold water supply pipe somewhere before it enters into the water heater. Once you have determined the best location for this system to be installed, unscrew the manifold and pour three gallons of water into the top of the tank. Now load the gravel and carbon into the top of the tank. Replace and tighten the manifold back onto the tank. Turn off your main cold water supply. Open a faucet nearby to relieve water pressure and drain the water line. Cut your main water supply pipe. You may wish to install a shut off valve (we recommend a good ball valve) and a filter at this point on your main water supply pipe before attaching it to the inlet side of the Bottled Water Factory manifold. Use a good quality thread sealant and attach brass or stainless steel or PVC nipples to the manifold inlet and outlet, depending on your type of piping or preference. Flexible water connections will help ease your piping installation from the main water supply to the inlet of the manifold and from the manifold outlet back to the main water supply. If your main water supply piping is copper, then Sharkbite® male NPT straight connectors can also help make your installation easier. Make sure your connections are properly tightened and sealed. Slowly turn the main water supply valve back on. Air will be expelled out of the faucet, opened earlier, as the mineral tank fills with water. Allow water to flow out from the faucet for five to ten minutes, or until water runs clear. Enjoy your fresh, clean water.

"Why does this system have a gravel underbed?"
This system uses a gravel underbed to keep the distributor screen at the bottom of the tank from clogging with carbon which will reduce the water flow.

"Why does the gravel need to be replaced when the carbon is replaced?"
The gravel does not need to be replaced, but should be cleaned (simple dishwashing detergent) and rinsed well before re-using and inserting back into the tank.

"Why can't we just backwash this system and re-use the carbon?"
The carbon is not re-usable. The carbon will absorb only so much chlorine and other chemicals that could be in the water. The carbon then becomes too saturated and is no longer able to remove chlorine and other chemicals. The carbon must then be discarded.

"How easy is it to replace the carbon?"
If you have a shop vacuum then the replacement of the carbon can be very easy and you will not need to disconnect the water connections to the manifold. Close the main water supply shut off valve. Open a faucet near the mineral tank to relieve water pressure and to drain the water line. Leave this faucet on until you refill the tank. Unscrew and remove the tank plug located near the top of the mineral tank and underneath the manifold valve. Using a shop vacuum, place a tubing extension into the mineral tank dome hole and remove the old carbon and gravel from the tank. Next, use a funnel and pour clean gravel into the mineral tank first and then pour the carbon in. Clean the dome hole opening in the tank and replace the mineral tank dome hole plug. Slowly turn the main water supply valve back on. Air will be expelled out of the faucet as the mineral tank fills with water. Allow water to flow out from the faucet for four or five minutes, or until water runs clear.