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Clawfoot, Antique, Victorian, and Related Products
go to Sign of the Crab products - go to shower sets for clawfoot tubs
"I need a clawfoot faucet that is 3 3/8" on center, is that what yours are?"
Yes, our clawfoot faucets (that attach to the side of a clawfoot tub) are all 3 3/8" center to center and that is what most clawfoot tubs need.
"What brand are these faucets?"
Many are made by Sign of the Crab. Not all, and our lower priced ones are not (for those on a budget). If the brand is important to you then please ask before ordering.
"Why do you offer 1 3/8" tub drains instead of today's standard 1 1/2" outside diameter tubing?"
In the "old days" 1 3/8" used to be the "standard" for clawfoot drains and we want to offer the closest possible to the original early 1900's standard size. You can easily adapt it to today's standard by simply using a thicker washer.
"With the old fashion style 1 3/8" o.d. bath tub drains, how do I adapt to my standard 1 1/2" threaded p-trap?"
We offer a 1 1/2" x 1 3/8" chrome slip joint nut along with a D style o-ring that will fit onto the 1 3/8" o.d. tubing. Simply order part #CLAW-1312NUTDOCH = $3.04
which includes both the special reducing nut and the special o-ring. Or a similar one in Polished Brass - part #CLAW-1312NUTDOPB = $6.76
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"Why are some of these spouts and hoses not to code in some areas?"
If a spout terminates below the top of a tub (or a showerhead is able to reach below the top of the tub) then there is a chance (however small) that should the tub be filled to the top and the water valve is on (still running), the legally potable (drinking) water then is touching non-potable water. When that happens there is an extremely small chance (but it is possible and therefore not code in some areas) that the potable water can become contaminated. If this is a concern or applicable, then please order only code style faucets. Most portable showerheads will be able to be placed below the top of the tub and therefore most portable hoses (no matter what brand) are not to code as well. We do offer an in-line 1/2" vacuum breaker for shower hose connections order #CLAW-S606ONDC chrome$31.00 or
#CLAW-S606ONDB for polished brass = $38.65 which some codes will allow for portable showerheads (but not all). Again, some areas are very strict, and even with a vacuum breaker, where hoses could lay in water, some codes won't allow hoses at all. If your area has strict codes, then we do not recommend purchasing any shower hoses. We cannot be responsible, nor can we know what your area will or will not allow as far as code is concerned. Showerheads should not be laid down below the flood rim (not placed inside the tub) of a tub at any time. Please also note that all brands of vacuum breakers can leak water somewhat (due to design of a vacuum breaker and it's what it does).
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"Do you sell an extension kit for the 3/8" chrome risers on the Add-A-Shower units?"
We sell 3/8" chrome nipples and chrome couplings. To go to our chrome page just click here.
"Is each support on the Carousel type Continuous Trak Rod independently adjustable?"
The rods are adjustable in length, but they should all be the same length because the flanges are not designed to be mounted at an angle. The flanges do not pivot, so the ceiling must be horizontal, and parallel to the rod.
"If my washers fail, will the manufacturer replace them?"
No. The replacement of washers is considered to be normal wear and tear and must be done regularly to the protect the seat.
Washer deterioration is directly related to use, water quality and overtightening of the handles. The handles need only be tightened enough to stop the flow of water. If, after the leftover water in the spout has drained, the
faucets continues to drip, tighten slightly until the flow stops. This will increase the life of your washers dramatically. Replacement washers are something that will need to be purchased locally as the manufacturer
will not ship them as replacements. When replacing washers, it is imperative that great care be taken when removing and replacing the bonnet nuts. A soft piece of cloth needs to be used to protect the finish
of the nut, and the nut should never be overtightened. It will cause the nuts to eventually crack.
"Can't I just attach a standard 1/2" flex to your faucets?"
With the sink faucets you can. With the tub faucets you need to purchase the adapters (or offset risers) as the faucet comes with a non tapered 3/4" fitting.
"I'm looking for a very thick brass shower rod. How strong/thick are the chrome over brass shower rods?"
The chrome (on brass) rods that we offer are very nice, and good quality but aren't very heavy or real thick. They are made out of tubular brass and will hold the weight of virtually any shower curtains but aren't designed to be used as a rod/holder to hold the weight of over 20 pounds.
"Does the continuous track shower rod come in any smaller dimensions?"
Most of our shower rods and track systems shown on this page can be cut down to whatever size that you need.
Note that you can't cut near corners, etc. Also please note that you can not cut the super deluxe rods (shown on another page) as the flanges are welded onto the rods.
"Is there any special care for increasing the longevity of my shower hose?"
Yes. After each use, it is very important that all of the kinks be removed from the hose before setting the handset on the bracket. Kinks left in the hose or any
unusual twisting or pulling will eventually cause the hose to crack, unravel and begin to leak.
Many of the above faucets contain a very small amount of lead. This is common with most brass faucets. In all cases, the manufacturers state that the lead content meets the new low lead content requirements per Federal Standards. Some of the faucets will have "caution" notes concerning lead. This is per California standards requirements. The content of lead in these faucets is much lower than pre 1997 acceptable levels.
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